21 June 2013

A Traveller's Worst Nightmare

Ello mates, my spring break adventure has gotten off to such a rocky start that I thought I should let you guys hear the full story in this wonderful blog post. Writing wise, I think this may be some of my best work. Event wise, this might just be the most unfortunate series of events ever to befall me. I think the lesson I’m learning in all of this is that although I love to travel, I’m not very good at it. I have no idea how this ended up to be 9 pages long. Sorry for the length. Hope you enjoy.
Wednesday 20 March 2013
7:31 AM
My Room, Dalkeith House

I woke up this morning feelin’ fine. I had something special on my mind. Cuz today I’m gunna travel around the world…   ohh yeah…    ooh something tells me I’m into something good.
Despite my anxiety from my upcoming trip giving me a small head cold, I really was feeling pretty good about myself. I headed down breakfast, had some toast and tea. Then I groggily made my way to the shower. After a few refreshing minutes under the low pressure hot water, I returned to my room to get the last of my packing done before class began at 9:50.
I was largely done packing from the night before. So all I needed now was some charger cables, toiletries, and my passport…   wait where’s my passport. Now stop reading for a moment and analyse how you feel about that last sentence. Magnify that by about a billion and you might have an inkling of how I was feeling.
There is a feeling that I only get when I’m having a nightmare. This is a feeling of utter hopelessness because something so unimaginably bad has happened so quickly that I am completely powerless to do anything about it. The blood drains from my head and extremities and all mu muscles begin to feel tense. If I could see myself, I’d probably be as white as a ghost.
I had that feeling, but this wasn’t a dream. This couldn’t be happening. I was leaving the country today. “No! No! No!” I whined to myself, along with several nasty swear words. My passport had to be somewhere, I just wasn’t looking hard enough.
I tore through my room, searching through every paper I owned – under the bed, dressers, and wardrobe – through every drawer, suite case, bag, pocket and my safe. Nothing. No passport anywhere to be seen.
My heart was pounding in my chest but for some reason none of the blood was going to my head. I felt nauseous and as if I were about to faint all at the same time. I needed to enlist help. So I ran downstairs to Nikki’s office to see if she or Patty would be there. The office was closed, locked and empty. I next went to the faculty lounge to the same result. I ran to Patty’s flat, knocking on the door frantically. No one answered. So I continued on through the Centre hall, through the Marble hall and into the Conference room where I began to frantically knock on the door to Stewart’s flat.
“Come in!” he hollered casually.
“So big trouble,” I said as I rushed into his living room. “I can’t find my passport.”
“Anthony, take a deep breath,” Stewart said trying to calm me down. “This sort of thing has happened before. Worst case scenario, we’ll get you a replacement passport.”
“I leave for Istanbul today. I need to be at Waverly Station at 12:11,” I explained further.
“Ohh, well then let’s go get Patty,” he said as we rushed out of his flat and back to Patty’s door.
Stewart rang a doorbell that I hadn’t seen the first time, and in a matter of moments Angus began to bark. Patty soon answered the door and we explained everything. I was beginning to feel like Henny Penny, only for me the sky really was falling, as our little group marched up to my room for a more thorough search.
Patty and Stewart moved dressers and the bed, searched through every drawer nook cranny and folder I owned. Nothing, Zip, Zero, NaDa. Putting it mildly, I was screwed and not in the good way.
Patty and Stewart went down stairs to look into my replacement options, while I combed the house in search for Amber and Jess, hoping against hope that one of them would at least be able to provide a clue to where my passport was.
After much searching, and the involvement of almost literally everyone I met up with, there was no finding this thing. Amber tore apart my room a third time, while I began to give up hope. I was out easily $500 on this trip, and god knows how much for a replacement passport. My ship was sunk and I knew it.
I think the adrenaline rush caused by the debacle was the only thing that kept me going. I found myself running around the house without a real destination in mind, all the while racking my brain for any clue as to where my passport would be.
When I barged into the Centre hall, Nikki was on the phone, and said, “He just walked into the centre hall…    Yep, I’ll tell him.” She hung up the phone and then looked at me saying, “Go get your things. Patty is going to drive you to the US embassy. We don’t know if we’ll be able to get you a replacement in time, but we’re going to try.”
So I ran upstairs, snagging my coat, hat, rucksack, and shoulder bag. If I was forgetting anything I’d have to live without it. When I got downstairs Patty was ready to go, and so we marched out of the front steps and into her car.
I’d never taken anything but a bus to or from Edinburgh, and under happier circumstances I might have been rather thrilled to find what truly was the fastest route to the city. I was not able to focus on the route, but I must say, all things considered, I was remarkably calm. Once we reached the city centre, we took a wrong turn, but thanks to a roundabout we were able to quickly correct it, arriving at the US Embassy at half ten.
Even though the security guard was Scottish, there was something homey about walking into the US Embassy. However, I really dislike going through security. Do I really look like a threat to the security of any nation? Really people? It’s a bloody waste of time, and it severely irked me given my tremendous time crunch.
Eventually I was let through, and praising whatever deity you chose, there was no queue. The woman was very quick about handing me three long forms. I snagged a clip board and quickly went to work. In all my life, I don’t think I’ve ever wrote my full name, address, social security number, and phone number so many different times in such a short span of time.
Patty came in when I was about half done with filling them out. She waited there for about five more minutes while I finished. When I was done, I handed the woman behind the counter the forms and my driver’s license, and she handed me some instructions on how to get to a passport photo place. Patty and I were out the door and down the road in no time.
I got out at the curb almost before the car had come to a stop and ran into the store. The man got up sensing my urgency, as I said, “I need an American Passport photo as quickly as possible.”
He didn’t say anything but instead instructed me to stand against the wall as he pulled out a small digital camera. He took a few photos and then got to work on his computer. The whole process took about fifteen minutes, which was about fifteen minutes longer than I wanted it to take. However, he knew I was in a hurry and even ignored the phone when it rang. The photos cost £5.95, but I handed him six quid and ran out the door. Patty was reading something in her car when I opened the passenger door, slightly startling her. She didn’t say anything of it and instead started the engine and headed back down the road.
“Thank you,” I said infinitely grateful.
“You’re not out of the woods yet,” she replied. She was right; it could still take another few hours to get the replacement. I didn’t have a few hours.
“Thanks all the same,” I said brushing the negative possibility out of my mind.
We arrived at the embassy a minute or so later, and once again I was running. I left every and anything metal in Patty’s car and so security simply waved me through this time. Entering the room, I slipped my passport photos under the glass window along with my debit card. It cost $135 for a replacement passport. They would give me an emergency one today, and that would also cover the cost of the real one when I returned to the states. I was then told to sit down and wait.
It was 11:20. I had 51 minutes before I missed my train. So I waited, and then I waited some more, and for a little change of pace…   I waited…   Pins and needles, mate, pins and needles.
It was about 11:35 when the woman called me back up to the counter and made me swear an oath that I had given them completely accurate information. I swore on my life and so it was time to proceed. I was interrogated as to the circumstances of my missing passport, family background, and personal questions. I was then lectured about the dire error on my part for losing such an important document. That was a fact which I was already acutely aware of. A fact which I was not aware of was that if I were to lose another passport I could be put on a Passport ban list. No more travelling  Beyond anything else that had happened today, that scared me. I was then told to sit again. More waiting.
At 11:40 the woman returned to the counter, having me fill a few more forms before handing me my emergency replacement passport. I thanked her and ran out the door, past security, and skipped down the front steps.
“Judging by the way you skipped, I’d say you got it,” Patty said to me when I got in the car.
“I got it,” I said holding up the passport. “What time is it?” I asked still paranoid beyond imagination.
“11:45,” she responded, reading off of her phone. We were going to make it. I think I broke down into that hysterical laughter that a person does on the brink of insanity. Sure I was relieved, but for some reason happy wasn’t quite registering.
Eventually I said, “Well now you know for next time, the minimum amount of time it takes to get a replacement passport is an hour and fifteen minutes.”
“That was pretty quick. I had little confidence that you’d be able to get the passport on time. If we were in London, there’s no way you would have gotten it that fast,” Patty said smiling.
“I didn’t think I’d get it in time either,” I agreed, “all the more reason to love Edinburgh.”
“I have to say this was a first,” Patty admitted. I wasn’t sure how I felt about that, but it was largely negative. “I’ve had students lose passports in other countries before, but I’ve never had one lose their passport here.”
I sighed. I wanted to make my mark on Wisconsin in Scotland history, but this really wasn’t the angle I was going for. We were on Princes Street now; it was 11:52; I was going to make it.
We arrived in Waverly Station at 11:55. I thanked Patty again, and asked her to tell Amber and Jess that I made it. Then I ran. The first monitor I found said that my train was on time, departing for Manchester Airport at 12:11PM from Platform 13.
Platform 13 was especially difficult to find, because it and platform 12 were not in sequential order like all the rest of the platforms. Even still I found the platform got on the train and still had about five minutes before it slowly began to pull out of the station.
I let out a quieter version of my hysterical laugh. I’d actually made it. I didn’t have to book a new train. I was going to be able to keep my train, and my plane and I actually made it! Of course by now I had gone through a mental check-list of everything I’d brought realizing that I had forgotten both my phone that could play music and take pictures, and my actual camera. I was going to Istanbul and would have no pictures to show for it, but I was going to Istanbul, and that’s what counted.
 I think I feel asleep by this point, waking somewhere in northern England, a stop south of Carlisle. There was a woman and a man sitting across the aisle from me, and I heard the woman say something I had never expected to hear in the UK.
“So have you seen this show?” The woman asked her companion.
“The one about the Dog?” the man asked?
“No that’s just his name,” the woman replied.
“There’s a man named Dog and he’s a bounty hunter?” the man said seeming somewhat confused.
“Are you talking about Dog the Bounty Hunter?” I asked in disbelief, “Because that’s my mum’s favourite show.”
“You’ve seen it then?” the woman asked.
“A few times,” I admitted.
The woman and I then proceeded to explain the show and back story and the strangely family orientated message behind the famous bounty hunter, until the man said, “So this is real then? I thought it was a cartoon or something.”
“No it’s real,” the woman said.
“Well as real as reality TV gets,” I added.
That was about the end of that conversation. I would spend the rest of the train ride journalling the day’s events. I wanted that entry to be fresh, crisp, and full of details. However, I still couldn’t believe they played Dog the Bounty Hunter in the United Kingdom. Perhaps I need my priorities checked, but out of everything that had happened so far, I think that blew me away the most. The reason, I think, is because grown as I am, after the hell of that morning. I needed my mum something fiercely, and in a small way I kind of got that.
As the train was pulling into Manchester, there were some communication errors that forced us to wait about a half an hour on the tracks. My flight didn’t depart for another three hours, and so this didn’t put any pressure on my schedule. However, after everything all I could think was Really? Why does this shit always happen to me?
I arrived in Manchester Airport rail station (MIA) at 5:03 PM. I actually felt pretty good about this when I got off the train. After all, I’d been here before. So with my luggage strapped on and with confidence in my step, I swaggered up the stairs and into the lift that led to the terminals. It’s always an ego boost when pretty girls make eye contact and smile. Didn’t mean anything, but one of my crisis coping mechanisms is to really focus hard to the positive things.
I found Swiss airlines, and again had to wait a hefty amount of time before I was finally able to check in. From here I waited in a series of incredibly long queues to make it through security. If I’m good at anything when travelling, I’m good at following signs, reading maps, and dealing with Airport Security.
When I made it through, I saw that the gate for my flight for Zurich wasn’t going to be announced for another 50 minutes. So I wandered. We all know the United States is capitalist. However, the United States could take a lesson on capitalism from Manchester International Airport. In every other airport I’ve ever been in my life, once you get through security you walk to your gate and pass a multitude of overpriced shops filled with useful or tasty goodies. In Manchester, the do that too for some of the shops, but for the rest of the shops you literally have no choice but to walk through them in order to reach the waiting area. Honestly this annoyed me, but it didn’t stop me from buying an overpriced disposable camera and a package of cold medicine. With the remainder of my time there, I worked on this post.
We would end up boarding the Plane 30 minutes behind schedule. Once we finally took off, I realized the second thing I had forgotten, gum. The pressure difference killed me, I can go on a boat any day. Give me the most turbulent weather imaginable. Give me pressure change like that, and I’m down for the count. By the time we finally arrived in Zurich at 10:03 local time, I was now both late and deaf. My ears wouldn’t fully recover until the following morning, but after about half an hour I had most of my hearing back. Being late however, proved to be rather worse. I had now lost money, and was out of a place to stay. I booked a hostel from my over night in Zurich, but their policy refuses to accept check ins after 10:00. Even still, I had to try.
When I got to the customs desk, and had a small amount of difficulty with my emergency passport. This difficulty was partially caused by the fact that I couldn’t hear the man behind the counter.
Either way, by correctly guessing the questions he was asking, I was able to get though customs and on to the tram. I had to wait 13 minutes for the next tram, and it took an additional 36 minutes for the tram to make it to Zurich city centre. There was no way I was getting into my hostel now, but by this point I was just along for the ride. I was in Switzerland; I might as well enjoy it a little.
The first thing I noticed was that the electronic voice in the tram pronounced the city “Zoo-reech” rather than “Zur-ick” as I had been told to pronounce it. I next realized, that I wasn’t even sure what language I was listening to. It sounded German. Do they speak German in Switzerland? Maybe, maybe not. If this language wasn’t German it was very likely related. However, that was a largely moot point because whatever language it was, I don’t speak it. Never before had only being able to speak English and Spanish been completely useless.
Regardless of this, the maps were easy enough to read, and I was soon able to understand the Tram system rather well. It wasn’t all that different to the Edinburgh bus system, with one positive caveat. It was free, my very favourite price.
I arrived in the city centre and tried to follow my directions to the hostel. I was met with little luck. Instead I ended up wandering about random streets, never exactly getting lost but all the while keeping a vague idea as to where I had gotten off the tram.
I eventually decided to give up and head back, and after a long amount of wandering I found a stand that was still open and selling food. I hadn’t realized how hungry I was until the scent caught my nose. This was a detour I couldn’t avoid. I ended up splurging, getting two croissants filled with cream cheese that tasted like vanilla ice cream and a berry yogurt thing that had some sort of cereal in it. Either way it was very tasty and I was very full, as I continued to wander the Swiss streets to the stop where I had gotten off the 10.
Going to the other side of the street, for trams headed in the other direction, I got on the next 10, which for some reason didn’t list the Airport as one of its eventual stops. It had taken me 36 minutes to get from the airport to Central, but the furthest stop this tram would go to was only 16 minutes away.
This troubled me some, but in the car in front of me I heard something that gave me some hope. There were a loud group of people in the tram car in front of me that were speaking English. After a few stops, I decided to ask them if they knew if this tram would go to the airport.
They didn’t, but one of them could speak German, and so he asked one of the locals. As it would turn out, yes this tram does go to the airport, during the day. It stops going that far once flights stop for the day.
I was now stranded in Zurich with nowhere to stay until the morning. Time to start walking, I thought to myself as I followed the 10 line north to the airport. I walked for about 45 minutes, lugging all my bags. It was likely close to 1 in the morning, and every time I made it to a tram stop, I would look at a route map. It was almost as if I wasn’t moving at all, or as if the airport was moving further and further away.
My back was starting to hurt, and for the first time since I arrived in Europe, I truly with every fibre of my being simply wanted to go home. Even I am not invincible. It is seldom that I truly hit a wall, but hit a wall I did. I buckled. I did the one thing I didn’t want to do. I got a Taxi. The driver was a lovely woman from Croatia, who was very pleasant to talk to. All that aside, I really didn’t want to spend 50 Swiss francs. All and all for the hostel I paid for but didn’t get, the food I shouldn't have splurged on, and the Taxi I shouldn’t have needed in the first place (because I should have never left the airport in the first place), I think I spent close to 100 Swiss francs. When you add that number to the cost of the passport I shouldn’t have needed to buy…   I have a definite feeling of being “in the hole.”  
When I finally made it to the airport, I wandered until I found a free bench and pulled out a few blankets from my bag. At the very least I had come somewhat prepared. I put all my valuables in my shoulder bag and locked it. I hid the keys in my inside my jacket pocket, and then used my belt to tie the straps of both bags to my left arm as tightly as possible. This wouldn’t prevent someone from stealing my stuff. However, I felt it would make it difficult for them to do it without waking me.

Thursday 21 March 2013
7:00 AM
A random bench in Zurich Airport

The benches in Zurich airport aren’t very comfortable. I slept very poorly waking up occasionally throughout the night. When I finally decided to greet the day, people were buzzing about noisily, a stark contrast to the ghost town of 1AM. I felt incredibly congested. I needed tea.
I wandered around until I found a small café. Do the Swiss to tea? Apparently so, well they do tea better than Americans but not as well as the Britt’s. What they don’t do well is cost. In no country, under any circumstance should a cup of tea cost 6.90 Swiss francs (approximately $7.15). I bought it. I needed to clear my throat, and I needed something in my stomach, but this was highway robbery (or rather runway robbery since we’re at an airport).
There was a recorded live jazz concert playing in the background. All I could do was to think of the irony of sipping overpriced English breakfast tea in a Swiss airport while listening to a jazz singer sing about New Orleans. Tiny cup, not enough sugar, not enough milk. Switzerland you let me down. Normally I wouldn’t be quite so picky, but when I spend that much, is it too much to ask to get a proper cup of tea?
So then I found a seat and looked for a plug socket. Unlike in British airports, there were sockets everywhere! This was one of the first good things to happen. The next thing that actually worked to my sheer amazement, was that my converter plug worked too! It’s only 11:00, so the day is still young, but thus far those are the highlights of my day. I depart for Istanbul at 12:40. The instant the people get to the counter, I need to go up to them and request a seat, because as an added bonus they have overbooked the economy class. My hope is that if I’m first in line of the “I don’t have a seat” group. I won’t have to worry. I have no idea what arriving in Istanbul will be like, but the reason I’m sending this now is because I can. I don’t know when I’ll have internet again.

Wish me luck. I certainly need it.

-Cheers!
Anth

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